Category Archives: Wine Destinations

Piemontegirl Tour

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Last week I tagged along a guy’s trip with 10 Norwegians and I showed them some of the wonderful things Piemonte has to offer. Our days included participating in winery activities, walking a 10k with champagne as the prize and of course many great meals. I also got to tag along on my first ever truffle hunt! On a Piemontegirl Tour you will be able to do all of these things, and more!

Trediberri

During a Piemontegirl tour you are guaranteed a fun winery experience. Whether it’s with the very talented and energetic Silvia Altare, an interactive experience with Marco Marengo, or a trip in the vineyards with Nicola, you’ll learn something new and have a lot of fun! This time, we caught Nicola at Trediberri at the end of the harvest period, and we got to see how “pumping over” works. We also measured the sugar level in the wine (after we got to taste it). If you’re lucky, Nicola will join you for Champagnemilå after.

Champagnemilå

Q: What is it?
A: A 10k walk through the vineyards from La Morra to Serralunga, with champagne served by Alessio at Vinoteca Centro Storico. If you do it “Piemontegirl style” you get one of these handy “bibs” and a glass so you can drink wine along the way.

Q: Why do you do it?
A: It’s a unique way to experience Piemonte. Biking is fun, but when you walk you can get up close and personal with nature. And with a nice break in Castiglione to refuel, the walk doesn’t seem so bad. Even for people who normally prefer to drive (like me!)

Q: What happens when you reach the goal?
A: Champagne! And then lunch. So make sure to book a table at Ciccio’s. And if your shoes are muddy, feel free to leave them outside. You’ll get a smile out of Alessio and Stefania.

What about food?

There is not exactly a shortage of restaurants in Piemonte. There are plenty of excellent option to chose from. I have compiled a list of restaurants here. FYI it’s in no way “complete”, but these are ones I have tried and highly recommend.

For this trip, More Macine and Vinoteca Centro Storico made the list. With a larger group (in the middle of the Truffle Festival) it can be difficult to find a place, so make sure you book far in advance.

#PåTurMedPiemontegirl

For those who don’t speak Norwegians, this basically means “On a trip with Piemontegirl.” I am happy to join you in Piemonte or help you plan a trip! Interested? Send me a message or an email.

To see pictures from my trips, check out the hashtag #PåTurMedPiemontegirl!

(Small) Guide to Burgundy

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After spending a few days in Burgundy this summer, and a few days some years ago, I’ve put together a few tips and suggestions for anyone who is thinking about visiting this beautiful wine region.

Where to Stay

I always stay in Beaune. A relatively big town, compared to the other small ones like Volnay or Mersault, it has everything you’ll need, along with some pretty great restaurants. Many Airbnb’s are scattered over the city, as well as many different hotels. Depends on your price range and wishes, of course, but you’ll most likely find a place that suits your needs.

A place I can highly recommend is Beaune Duplex Maison du Bastion 4, found on Airbnb. Beautiful garden, nice rooms, kitchen and parking. There are also multiple apartments, so larger groups can fit nicely here.

Where to Eat

Here are some of my go-to places for lunch and dinner:

Caves Madeleine
Le Bistrot Bourguignon
Ma Cuisine
La Sufflot
Volnaysien

Wineries

Now, Burgundy is busting with wineries. Of all sizes, shapes and forms. We all have different tastes and preferences, and mine might vary drastically from yours. But here are some of my favorite winemakers in the area.

Michel Lafarge
Joseph Voillot
Domaine Dujac
Comte Liger-Belair
Benjamin Leroux
Matrot

Wine Shopping (the best kind of shopping)

If you’re looking to buy wine in Burgundy, here are some of the best places (in my opinion) to find great wines.

Mes Bourgognes Beaune
Cavon de Bacchus, Nuits St George
Caveau de Puligny Montrachet
Caveau Chassagne Montrachet

“Sightseeing”

One thing I recommend everyone to do, is to just explore. These small towns are filled with beautiful streets, buildings and “landmarks”. You can take a stroll down “Rue de La Tache”, or walk to the famous Romanee-Conti vineyard or take the “obligatory” picture with the cross. So much history and so many great wines. It’s paradise for us wine lovers. And I can’t wait to go back!

A Family Affair

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A Family Business

In the wine industry, it’s very common to work with your family. You pass the winery onto your children, your children pass it onto their children. And so it goes for generations. But what happens if your son or daughter don’t want to make wine? What happens if you don’t have any children? What happens if you disagree? Or, worst case; what happens if you don’t get along?

Winemakers are people, just like you and me. Do we always get along with our family? Do we always follow in the footsteps of our parents? No. My whole family works in one industry, and I chose another. But is it easy to chose a different path when you’re raised in the family business? I know that some of the Oddero family members became doctors instead of winemakers. Nicola at Trediberri studied business before he became a winemaker. Something that often happens, is a winery “splitting up”. Example: one sibling continues with the same winery while the other sibling starts up a new one. In La Morra you have Revello Fratelli and Carlo Revello & Figli, where the two sons decided to split up and do their own thing. Now, “splitting up” doesn’t have to be the cause of a fight or argument. Sometimes it’s just the right thing to do. Maybe they have different visions or strategies. Maybe they both have multiple kids who want to continue the tradition, and it makes sense to divide and conquer.

Complicated Also For Wine Lovers

I am not saying that this is as bad for us wine lovers as it is for the families involved, because it is not, but that is not to say that this phenomenon does not influence the lives of someone who just loves to enjoy wine.  I mean, have you ever thought about how many wineries have the same or similar names?! How many Boillots are there in Burgundy? Moreys? Colins? Or to make matters worse, someone decides to call their son Colin-Morey. It’s not weird that you sometimes feel confused when buying wine. Which one was the Colin you wanted? Pierre Yves Colin Morey or Marc Colin? Or a completely different Colin. The strangest part is that some of them are actually related, while others just have the same last name. Which just makes it harder for us consumers to navigate the vast world of wine.  

Did I Say Complicated?

For long, this was a burgundian “problem”.  In Piemonte, for example, the next generation just kept the name of their fathers.  But now with changes at the Fontana, Revello, Vietti, and Veglio wineres amongst others, one really needs to pay attention to be on top of which wine is which, and who makes what.  Take this example from La Morra:  A few years ago, news broke that Andrea Oberto’s son left the winery. But not only did he stop working with his father, he started his own winery, mere feet from his father. What will happen to Andrea Oberto now? Will his daughter (who I believe does some office work for the winery) step in and fill the shoes of her brother? Will Andrea have to pass his legacy onto someone outside the family?

A consequence of Fabio Oberto starting up his own company, La Collina di Dioniso, is that the wines of Andrea Oberto are no longer available in Norway. But you can find Andrea’s wines in La Morra, Piemonte, at the local restaurants and the local wine store. Interestingly enough, you can’t find Fabio’s wines there. What do you think that means?

And what does it mean for the consumer? For the producer? For the importer? This is so complicated I don’t even want to try to analyze. But just think about it next time you find Fabio Oberto’s wines instead of Andrea Oberto’s. So much is happening behind the scenes – at the wine store, at the importers office and in the homes of these wine families.

Andrea Oberto & his wife

Happily Ever After

What does a happily ever after look like at a winery in Piemonte? My answer would be: Happiness is in the eye of the beholder. I mean, who are we really to have an opinion on whether a winery stays in the family, if they split up or stay together, or even sell? Most of us have no clue what is going on in each of these families, and it’s up to them to find out what suits them the best.

Joseph Voillot

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A secret in Volnay

Prices in Burgundy are soaring, but there are still some very good producers flying under the radar, with prices relatively low. One of these producers is Joseph Voillot.

A stonethrow away from another great producer, Michel Lafarge, you’ll find the Voillot family. At the moment it is Etienne and his uncle who run things. Don’t ask me about the family intricacies of families in Bourgogne. It’s too complicated. But the bottom line is that the Voillot winery is a family winery.

2017 – a normal vintage

The new vintage released is the 2017. 2017 was a normal year, no frost damage, no hail damage – so what they would call a normal year. There was some frost and hail, but not out of the ordinary and not as damaging as 2016. To combat the frost 2017 they used smoke, as you’ve probably seen in the pictures.

Joseph Voillot makes about 12 different wine, we tried 10 of the. Pardon my spelling, I did my best:
Bourgogne Aligoté
Mersault Les Chevaliers
Mersault Les Cras
Bourgogne Vielles Vigne
Pommard Vielles VIgne
Beaune aux Coucherias
Volnay Les Fremiets
Volnay Les Champans
Pommard Les Pezerolles
Pommard Les Rugiens

My Voillot Favorites

In all honesty, all the wines were good. Voillot makes wines with incredible passion, hard work and meticulous attention to detail. For them, the most important part of winemaking is the fruit. They destem the grapes, instead of using whole cluster, because they believe it takes away from the fruit. They work diligently in the vineyard to make sure that when the harvest comes along, the fruit is perfect.

Among the 10 wines we tasted, my favorites were the Bourgogne Vielles Vigne 2017, Beaune aux Coucheries 2017 and the Volnay Les Fremiets 2017. Out of all the wines, these (for me) were the most elegant and very easy to drink. I think in a few years, (5-10) the Volnay Les Champans will be incredible! So many good options to chose from!

When to travel to Piemonte

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In my opinion, March to mid-August is the best time to visit Piemonte. The summer months can be quite hot, but if you have a hotel with a pool it’s quite manageable. Besides, I spend most of my time in a dark wine cellar, so the outside temperature doesn’t really matter.  If Festivals are your thing perhaps September and October better floats your boat.

January

January is the coolest month in Piemonte. Temperatures can drop below 0 degrees Celsius and rarely go above 10 degrees Celsius. It is a vacation month for many Piemontese. Check availability of hotels, restaurants, and winemakers before you plan to go in January.

February

Temperatures still low in February, but slowly starting to climb. Piemonte will be quite calm, but the winemakers are working hard. Wineries will most likely be open, and less busy as February is sort of an off-season.

March

Piemonte starts warming up. Temperatures can rise to about 15 degrees. Some days you can even sit outside and have lunch. Especially if you’re Norwegian.

A highlight in March is the Wine Fair Prowein. Although this event takes place in Germany, it still affects Piemonte because many winemakers will travel there to present their wines.

April

April is the month of Vinitaly. Chances are many of the producers head to Verona for about a week, so winery visits might be difficult those days.

Another happening in April is Easter. And the day after Easter Sunday is Pasquetta. On this day, families come together and celebrate. Long lunches, picnics, barbeque, drinking, dancing & more.

May

May is one of the best months to visit Piemonte. Temperatures reach 20’s, the hills of Langhe are green and it’s time for the event Barbaresco a Tavola! Every year, multiple restaurants in Barbaresco participate in a wine tasting where you  try about 20 different Barbaresco wines blind.

Serralunga stand their ground to, inviting you to their “Wine Festival a Serralunga d’Alba” late in the month.  May is also Barbera month, with both Castagnole Lanze and Nizza Monferrato having barbera festivals.

June

Summertime! Wineries open, flowers blooming and temperatures soaring. Toward the end of the month, there is a big wine event called Hill Barolo La Morra. At this event you get the opportunity to taste the new vintage of Barolo.

July

If you like music festivals & wine, July is the month for you. Collisioni Festival takes place every July in Barolo. Previous performers include Patti Smith, Bob Dylan, Elton John, Neil Young, Steven Tyler, Placebo, Passenger, Mark Knopfler & Lenny Kravitz.

Another music event in Piemonte is the Monforte In Jazz Festival.

August

August 15th, or Ferragosto, means it’s vacation time for the people of Langhe. A lot of wineries will be closed, for a week or two while the hardworking winemakers take some well deserved time off.

At the end of August, there is a very fun event called Mangialonga. It’s a “non competitive enogastronomic hike” and takes place in La Morra.

September

Harvest usually starts mid to late September. For wine enthusiast it might be wise to book the trip at the beginning, but you never know when it will start. Hence chances of winery visits are diminished. 

Weather wise it’s a beautiful time to visit, and there are plenty of other things to do in the area. Like eat and drink. In fact, the first Sunday in September there is Degusta La Morra – an event where the winemakers of La Morra put up booths in the streets and for only £15 you can try as many wines as you like!

Verduno hosts a dinner where Pelaverga is the center of attention. Find out more here.

Bra hold their annual Cheese Festival, simply called “Cheese”, the 3rd weekend of September. Asti their Festival of Festivals (Festival delle Sagre in Italian), celebrating the customs and tradition of country life. And Verduno their “Festa del Verduno Pelaverga” celebrating their native grape Pelaverga. Neive says hello too, with their “Neive Vino e…”

October

Harvest continues into October. The end of the harvest depends on the vintage, so if you want to visit wineries, the later you go, the better chance you have.

If you’re unable to book any winery visits, you can try wines at the Cantina Comunale instead. Every Saturday in October (into November) you can try wines from the winemakers of La Morra.

October = truffles. And truffles = lots of tourists. The Truffle Festival in Alba starts early October and last until late November.

October is also the wettest month, on average, so if you want to avoid rain, maybe postpone your trip to November.

November

Truffle Festival still going strong, and some say the best truffles are found in November.

The first 3 Sundays in November, you can try wines from the winemakers of La Morra at the Cantina Comunale.

December

Things are quieting down in Piemonte. Christmas is approaching, the vines are sleeping and there is not so much to do in the vineyards. Why not celebrate New Years Eve, or Cappdanno, in one of the many amazing restaurants? I assure you they have Champagne!