Ever been to Perno? Ever heard of this restaurant?
Marco Forneris, the chef
This cozy gem is tucked away in a little town called Perno, near Castilione Falletto. It’s not very far way from my usual stomping grounds (La Morra) but it feels far away because of the small windy roads and the fact that you have to drive all the way around Castiglione. Anyways, if you have never been here, you should go!
Repubblica di Perno is “simple” but exquisite. They serve traditional food with a creative spin and the result is out of this world. Marco Froneris, the chef, used to work at La Libera in Alba. Ever been there? Anyways, Marco and his wife create a truly wonderful experience at this small restaurant in the middle of this small town, with good service and good food! The ingredients are fresh and the food made with a little TLC.
If you go, I recommend the tajarin, maltagliati and the bistecchine. And if you’re more adventurous than me. I have been told that the lingua and the uovo are amazing! I can’t guarantee that the menu pictured will be the same if you go, as the dishes vary seasonally and probably also based on the raw materials. But anything should be delicious!
One of the things I like to do is ask the “professional” foodies where they go to eat and drink, and I’m rarely disappointed. La Bottega del Vino was recommended by Ciccio from Centro Storico and he was not wrong to recommend this place. I think I spent 20 minutes with the wine list alone, and because the wine list was so amazing I had to first pick the wine and then the food — struggles.
I went safe with the food: Vitello Tonnato, Raviolo cacio & pepe and a lava cake for dessert. The ravioli was really good, with tons of good flavors. I did not get a picture because I got too excited didn’t have time to take a photo… But it was good! The Vitello Tonnato was also good, but I still prefer the versions in Barolo. And chocholate cake is never a bad idea. So food wise it was a pretty good night!
Now the wine… I know it might be strange to order french wine in Italy but when I saw they had Marc Colin on the wine list I did not have much choice. I think he makes some of the best wines in the world, and even his most “basic” wines are incredible. So you don’t have to break the bank to enjoy a good glass of chardonnay. Apart from Marc Colin they had many other amazing french wines from Matror, Liger-Belair and Domaine Leflaive. In the Piemonte section they had a good selection of Gusieppe Rinaldi, Capellano, Vietti, Cavallotto, Brezza, Gaja and Conterno. I was not disappointed and hope to return here very soon!
Le Torri is a restaurant located in Castiglione, and I think it is one of the restaurants with the best views. If you are lucky enough to sit on the balcony, you have a beautiful view of Langhe. And the food is very good! They recently changed owners, and the new ones are doing very well! I usually eat the traditional dishes, like Vitello Tonnato and Tajarin Ragu, but they have a variety of dishes you can try.
The wine list is great; not surprising, since its located in the Barolo region. You find wines from the town, like Cavallotto or Vietti, but also wines from the other areas near by. By the glass or a full bottle, either way are you in good shape! Definitely worth a try, maybe after a winery visit with Guiseppe Cavallotto?