Barolo 2014 gets a bad rap! With this vintage we truly see the power of wine journalists. What do I mean by that? Let me try and explain.
April showers bring May flowers
While this is a beautiful proverb, it was not the case in 2014. Instead of just April showers, it rained pretty much all of July. And not just a little bit of drizzle. It poured. I know, because I was there that year. It didn’t look good for the grapes and the winemakers were worried. And if that was not enough, the wine journalist and wine enthusiasts started to slam the 2014 vintage before the grapes were even harvested.
Here’s where it gets interesting: the weather picked up just in time for ripening season. While the Dolcetto and Freisa suffered quite a bit (also due to hail storms), the Barbera and Nebbiolo grapes were able to ripen just in time for harvest season. In the end, a year that seemed unsalvageable due to horrible weather conditions was indeed salvaged by good weather conditions.
The “Problem” with Barolo 2014
You’d think the winemakers would be happy with the way the vintage turned out. But, the damaged had already been done during the first half of the year. The 2014 vintage got such a bad rap that many had problems selling their wines. I think some still have 2014’s sitting in their cellar. In Norway, there are still Barolo 2014 available today, whereas the glorious 2016 vintage is sold out! And it’s such a shame because so many wonderful Barolos were made in 2014.
As Galloni said, “Navigating through the 2014 Barolo vintage is going to require a bit of work, although the time spent will be hugely rewarding.” And he is right. Good winemakers always make good wines, even in challenging years. Hard work pays off! And so while Barolo 2014 gets a bad rap, I’d encourage you to spend some time seeking out the great bottles that were made in this trying vintage. You’ll be pleasantly surprised!
Diego Barale in Cannubi
Tasting Notes Barolo 2014
Cascina Fontana Barolo
As Mario Fontana famously said: “The wine must reflect the season”. He said this while we tasted the Barolo 2014 together at his winery in July 2018. The wine was approachable and pleasant to drink, with plenty of fruit. It lacked a bit of structure, especially compared to the 2013 vintage but the wine did not live up to its “bad reputation.” In fact, it was quite the opposite!
Diego e Damiano Barale Barolo
Diego Barale has a soft spot for his 2014 Barolo. And I can see why. Beautiful aromas of roses, leather and liquorice jump out of the glass inviting you to taste it. The wine is light and fresh with smooth tannins making it very approachable. According to the brothers, they don’t feel their 2015 is ready yet. And while we wait for it to be ready we can drink the 2014. Which is what we did the summer of 2020.
Fratelli Alessandria Barolo
Blindtasted this against another wine October 2019 and I would NEVER have guessed it was 2014. Aromas of strawberries and other red fruit. Smooth but persistent tannins. Very fresh. A wonderful wine.
Giovanni Corino Barolo Arborina
Tasted this at the winery with Veronica Corino March 2018. As predicted, it did not have the same structure as 2013, but the wine did not feel like it was lacking anything. I think we should move away from using the terms “good” and “bad” when talking about vintages, and instead focus on the differences. Because every year is different. We just have to remember that different isn’t necessarily a bad thing.
Trediberri Rocche dell’Annunziata
A little closed on the nose when first opened, but after a while aromas of red fruits appeared. Good acidity, balances with a long finish. A fresh and approachable Barolo. Tasted in April 2019.
Vietti Barolo Lazzarito
Aromas of wet earth, mushroom, truffle and leather. Approachable, but perhaps a little green on the nose? Quite complex. Tasted this as a “pop and pour” at the winery August 2019. Would probably benefit from a little bit of air.
Barolo 2014 for my Norwegians:
There are still some Barolo 2014 available at Vinmonopolet!
The Dolcetto 2019 are quite structured with lots of fruit. I find them to be a bit more complex, especially compared to 2018, giving the wine a little more “oomph”. One could argue that the Dolcetto from 2017 also had “oomph” but perhaps not complex. The warm temperature of the 2017 vintage gave the wines a bigger character, but also a lack of balance when it came to acidity and alcohol. Keep in mind, this is one person’s opinion and taste, opinions and tastes which might differ from yours.
I really like Dolcetto 2019. I know that is a general statement, but after tasting quite a few Dolcetto from 2019, I feel like I can be fairly general. Everything is relative, and my opinion may stem from the fact that I was not as impressed by Dolcetto in 2017 and 2018 as I am by 2019. Below are some of my tasting notes in alphabetical order. Enjoy!
Dolcetto 2019
Burlotto Dolcetto
Concentrated nose with aromas of cherry and red fruits. Also quite concentrated in the mouth. A beautiful Dolcetto!
A perfect Dolcetto nose. Elegant and rich with good structure. The grapes come from a vineyard in Sinio where the soil is composed of limestone with some clay. Mario vinifies his Dolcetto in stainless steel tanks.
Fruity and fresh, yet complex, both on the nose and in the mouth. Violets and dark berries on the nose. The vines, grown in San Giovanni, are 50 years old.
A powerful wine with a crisp nose. Fresh and fruity with good acidity. Aromas of blackcurrant, dark fruit and berries.
Marengo Dolcetto
Powerful aromas of dark berries. A good wine that’s easy to drink. Fruity. More structure than 2018
Nadia Curto Dolcetto
Nadia had an issue with storms in her Gattera vineyard where the Dolcetto grows. Maturation of the grapes was blocked due to the storm which resulted in a Dolcetto with a higher acidity. Aromas of blackcurrant, cherry and other dark berries.
As with most of the 2019 Dolcetto’s, the Paolo Scavino Dolcetto is quite structured. I really like it. Concentrated and explosive. Fruity with good length.
Trediberri Dogliani Bricco Mollea
The Bricco Mollea vineyard is located in Vicoforte, far south in Langhe. Dolcetto’s from Dogliani tend to be more intense than Dolcetto’s from La Morra, and if you combine the terroir with the 62 year old plants, you get a complex and intense Dolcetto.
I bet you didn’t know that the Cascina Fontana Dolcetto holds a special place in Mario’s heart! Personally, I think Dolcetto is quite underrated. We don’t give it enough attention. And, as it turns out, the Dolcetto grape is not the easiest to deal with. But that doesn’t stop Mario! During my last visit we spent quite a bit of time talking about Dolcetto. Turns out it’s one of Mario’s favorite to grow. Even if it can be a pain in the a**!
Winemaking
The Cascina Fontana Dolcetto is aged in stainless steel tanks. The grapes come from a vineyard in Sinio, which is outside the DOCG area. The vineyard has soil composed of limestone with some clay. Something that is very important to Mario is the fact that the wine must reflect the vintage. He said this when talking about the 2014 vintage, but it also applies to any other vintage. As you can see below, the Dolcetto has quite different expressions in the separate vintages and I like all of them!
Cascina Fontana Dolcetto Tasting Notes
Dolcetto 2019
In the words of Mario Fontana: “2019 is a great vintage.” You have this perfect Dolcetto nose, good structure and wonderful freshness. I think the 2019 Dolcetto’s are elegant and rich, with more power than 2018.
Dolcetto 2018
As Nicola from Trediberri once said, the 2018 vintage is skinny just like Miley Cyrus. The 2018 Dolcetto is light and fruity – a very drinkable Dolcetto. Lacks the structure you find in 2017 and 2019, but structure isn’t always something you strive for in a Dolcetto.
Dolcetto 2017
Compared to 2019, 207 was a warm vintage, and so the alcohol is a little higher. The 2017 has 13.5% alcohol, but because Mario is such a wonderful winemaker, you cannot taste it!
Cascina Fontana Barolo 2016
You can find tasting notes on the Cascina Fontana 2016 Barolo’s here.
Barolo 2016 – the vintage to rule them all? Every vintage is different. Some are hot, some are cold, some are dry and some are wet. And then you have everything in between. Sometimes, you have a vintage where everything kind of lines up. 2016 is such a vintage.
What is the best weather, you might ask. The reason it’s hard to answer this question is the fact that each step of the way, the grapes need different things. You want rain in the growing season, but not too much. During the harvest, the absence of rain is preferred. It needs to be warm, but not too warm, and you also want the nights to be cooler toward the harvest, but not too cool. The grapes are indeed quite high maintenance.
But then you have the “magic” vintages. The weather in 2016 was just about as perfect as can get for the Nebbiolo grapes. The growing season was long, there was an absence of natural disasters like hail, the weather was stable toward the end of the season and the harvest was late.
Barolo 2016
A lot of good Barolos came out of 2016, but what struck me the most is the high quality of the classic blends compared to the Cru Barolos. The classic blends are usually simpler, less complicated and can sometimes be perceived as inferior to the Cru Barolos. But in 2016 the disparity between the two is much smaller. I found the blends to be approachable, elegant, fresh and complex. It might be the year to stock up on the classic blends and give your wallet a break.
Top 5
Among the Barolo 2016s I’ve tasted, a few stood out. The unifying aspect connecting these wines was the “wow” feeling I got when I tried them. They were more than good wines, there was something extraordinary about them.
Azelia Barolo Cerretta 2016 – Now we’re talking! A powerful Barolo with an explosive nose. Notes of chocolate, tobacco, fruit. Big but sweet tannins. Burlotto Barolo 2016 – Holy shit. An incredibly approachable Barolo with elegant tannins. On the nose you’ll find hints of spices, tobacco, some chocolate and violets. Diego e Damiano Barale Barolo 2016 – Smooth and elegant Barolo with notes of leather, roses and red fruit. Excellent structure with round but persistent tannins. Francesco Borgogno Barolo Brunate 2016 – Beautiful nose, just like a Brunate should smell. Elegant wine with a long finish. Hints of tar on the nose. Marengo Barolo Brunate 2016 – Holy tits on toast. Those were my exact notes. A beautiful nose – floral and fruity. Elegant tannins, very smooth. This wine has huge potential.
Note that our tastes may differ, and these are based on my personal preferences. The wines are sorted in alphabetical order.
Barolo 2016 Tasting Notes
Andrea Oberto Barolo Commune di La Morra A very fresh Barolo with some balsamic notes. Hint of red fruit and tobacco. Tasted blind next to Barolo Rocche dell’Annunziata 2016 and Barolo Arbarella 2015.
Andrea Oberto Barolo Rocche dell’Annunziata Lovely floral and fruity nose. A big wine with sweet (round) tannins. My favorite Barolo 2016 from Andrea Oberto. Tasted blind next to Barolo 2016 and Barolo Arbarella 2015.
Andrea Oberto Barolo Albarella A very floral and feminine Barolo with hint of licorice. Tasted next to the Barolo Albarella 2015, and although 2015 is a good vintage, 2016 is definitely more expressive and approachable.
Azelia Barolo Floral and fruity nose, elegant tannins, good structure and long finish. A classic Barolo with grapes from Castiglione and Serralunga, giving the wine a good mix of feminine and masculine characteristics.
Azelia Barolo Margheria A powerful wine! Notes of tobacco, chocolate and spices.
Azelia Barolo San Rocco Another big wine from Azelia. Notes of chocolate and warm dark fruit.
Azelia Barolo Cerretta Now we’re talking! A powerful Barolo with an explosive nose. Notes of chocolate, tobacco, fruit. Big but sweet tannins.
Burlotto Barolo Holy shit. An incredibly approachable Barolo with elegant tannins. On the nose you’ll find hints of spices, tobacco, some chocolate and violets.
Burlotto Barolo Acclivi My first thought: What an extreme difference to the classic. The nose was so much more explosive. Roses, wet forest floor, spices. Smooth tannins. Spicy in the mouth.
Burlotto Barolo Monvigliero Again, so different on the nose. Typical monvigliero notes, almost like perfume. Spicy and floral. Impressive wine that is both powerful and elegant at the same time, with a long finish.
Burlotto Barolo Cannubi Floral, fruity, fresh. Bigger in the mouth than the other three. Big but with sweet tannins, making it relatively approachable now. But this is a wine I would store for a while.
Cascina Fontana Barolo “A wine complete” – Mario. Everything is good – well integrated, good nose, good structure. Elegant with a long finish.
Cascina Fontana Barolo Castiglione More masculine notes compared to the classic Barolo. Bigger in the mouth, but still elegant.
Cavallotto Barolo Beautiful nose with notes of roses, fruit and leather. Very elegant tannins.
Cavallotto Barolo Vignolo Big but approachable. Notes of roses and tobacco. Long finish.
Chiara Boschis Barolo Cannubi Explosive nose, very feminine and fresh. A very elegant Barolo.
Chiara Boschis Barolo Nia Nuova Via Nuova is a lot bigger than Cannubi, more masculine.
Chiara Boschis Barolo Mosconi A big wine with a long finish. Can feel the Monforte tannins. Huge potential!
Diego e Damiano Barale Barolo Smooth and elegant Barolo with notes of leather, roses and red fruit. Excellent structure with round but persistent tannins.
Diego Morra Barolo Zinzasco Balsamic and tobacco on the nose with a hint of chocolate. Big round tannins but they go away quite quickly and then you’re left with beautiful fruit and chocolate.
Ettore Germano Barolo Prapo A powerful yet elegant Barolo with softer tannins.
Ettore Germano Barolo Cerretta More powerful and concentrated. Balsamic nose with hints of concentrated fruit. Powerful tannins, a rustic Barolo.
Francesco Borgogno Barolo Brunate Beautiful nose, just like a Brunate should smell. Elegant wine with a long finish. Hints of tar on the nose.
Fratelli Revello Barolo The Fratelli Revello Barolo 2016 seduces you with aromas of red berries, licorice, tobacco and roses. The wine is powerful yet elegant, with a round fruity feel backed up by a good structure.
Gianfranco Alessandria Barolo Notes of oak, spices and rose petals. Big tannins, typical of a Monforte Barolo. Very good, long finish.
Gianfranco Alessandria Barolo San Giovanni This Barolo smells just like e a Barolo should smell. Some oak notes in addition to notes of licorice, leather and cherries. Big in the mouth, a typical Monforte Barolo. A tad spicy with a long finish.
Luigi Pira Barolo Marenca A more masculine and austere Barolo, but also quite crisp and fresh. Notes of tobacco, spices and menthol.
Luigi Pira Barolo Vignarionda Beautiful nose with notes of roses, red fruit and chocolate. An explosive wine with a long finish.
Marengo Barolo Smells just like a Barolo should, with notes of roses, leather and fruit. Smooth tannins that disappear quickly.
Marengo Barolo Bricco Delle Viole A more floral nose compared to the classic, with hints of roses and violets. More tannins than the classic as well.
Marengo Barolo Brunate Holy tits on toast. Those were my exact notes. A beautiful nose – floral and fruity. Elegant tannins, very smooth. This wine has huge potential.
Mauro Veglio Barolo Subtle nose with notes of spices, leather, flowers. Tastes just like a Barolo should taste – elegant and balanced. A big powerful wine, yet elegant, with a long finish.
Mauro Veglio Barolo Arborina Smells like Arborina, a beautifully feminine wine. Notes of rose petals with a hint of leather. An impressive Barolo that’s smooth in the mouth. Arborina tends to be more direct/vertical than Gattera.
Mauro Veglio Barolo Gattera Slightlymore masculine than Arborina. Notes of wet soil, spices, leather on the nose. Bigger tannins, rounder, more complex than the Arborina.
Mauro Veglio Barolo Castelletto Very spicy nose. Notes of tar and forest floor. More tannins and more structure than Arborina and Gattera.
Mauro Veglio Paiagallo Mauro Veglio Barolo Paiagallo 2016 has a very elegant nose of red berries, mainly strawberry and raspberry. The wine is powerful but elegant. Remarkably soft tannins!
Mauro Molino Barolo Bricco Luciani Feminine with smooth tannins. Red berries and floral notes.
Nadia Curto Barolo La Foia More tension than 2015. Fresh and crisp. Big but elegant.
Trediberri Barolo Roses, tobacco and tar. A wonderful, big Barolo. Might need some time in the glass to open up.
Vietti Barolo Perfect Barolo nose! A powerful wine with big tannins but they disappear quickly and you’re left with wonderful fruit.
Vietti Barolo Lazzarito Fresh nose, very fruity and floral with hints of spices and forest floor. Good structure.
Vietti Barolo Ravera Balsamic nose with hints of leather and licorice. Spicy in the mouth with a long finish. This wine needs time
Vietti Barolo Brunate Beautiful nose – floral, elegant, fruity. Powerful but also elegant. Long finish.
Norwegians are gearing up for Constitution Day. Many are graduating from school this spring. Perhaps some of you are getting ready for a birthday or an anniversary? And what better way than to celebrate with some good wine!
Champagne
I personally celebrate with Champagne. There’s something about bubbles that puts me in a festive mood. And I have a few “regulars” that I go back for. Bereche Brut Reserve 495,00kr is one of them. A very fresh and crisp wine, with subtle bubbles, just the way I like it. Agrapart Terroirs Grand Cru Blanc de Blancs Extra Brut 568,10kr is another great wine. It’s a little more expensive, but worth it if you want to celebrate a little extra!
Pierre Peters Brut 399,90kr still has to be the Champagne with the best QPR. Even with the small increase in price, it’s still under 400kr and one of my go-to when drinking bubbly. But if I really want to celebrate, I sometimes get Philipponnat Royale Réserve Brut 559,90kr. After meeting Charles Philipponnat at a winemakers dinner many years ago it has been my favorite!
White Wine
Not a fan of bubbles? Not even Champagne? Don’t worry! There are many other wines in the world. White wine is a good alternative. Vietti Roero Arneis 249,90kr is perfect for summer. Goes well with seafood, salads and light dishes. And while we are in Piemonte, maybe try the Diego Morra Chardonnay 198,00kr. Although a Chardonnay from Piemonte is typically more mineral than a Chardonnay from Burgundy, it’s still juicy and fresh. But if Burgundy is more to your liking, try the Matrot Bourgogne Chardonnay 250,00kr.
Red Wine
After drinking some Champagne and white wine, red wine often becomes an obvious choice. Need something light that doesn’t necessarily require food? Dolcetto is the grape for this scenario. Just saw that Cascina Fontana Dolcetto 260,00kr arrived in Norway, and I had to run out and get a bottle. Luigi Pira Dolcetto 205,90kr is a good, slightly cheaper option. And I know we are all excited to see the Dolcetto from Trediberri!
Speaking of Trediberri, his Barbera at only 189,90kr is still the best buy in Norway at the moment. There are plenty other great Barbera’s, and one of them is the Altare Barbera 315,00kr. Prices recently went up in Norway, and unfortunately this wine is no longer under 300kr. I blame Covid-19…
Thanksgiving might be an American (and Canadian) thing, so chances are you might not have a relationship with this holiday. Turkey, however, is something most of us (at least meat eaters) have a relationship with. And since Turkey is a big part of Thanksgiving, it may be fitting with suggestions of wines that pair well with turkey!
Thanksgiving – what wine should you get?
If you google “wine pairing turkey” you get many different results. I guess it all comes down to taste. Decanter suggests oaked chardonnay or pinot noir. Forbes brings out the big guns and suggests Champagne! While these are all good ideas, my suggestion (as Piemontegirl) would be Barbera.
Barbera for Thanksgiving
When it comes to fatty food, like Turkey, tannin is the enemy and acidity is your friend. And if there is one thing you’ll find in Barbera, it’s acidity. Personally I also prefer red wine with meat, even if it’s “light meat”, and would therefore choose Barbera over Champagne or a white wine. Again, this comes down to tastes and preferences, but it should come as no surprise that Piemontegirl recommends something from Piemonte.
Barbera 2020
2020 has been a strange year. A lot of things have happened. And a lot of things have been cancelled. However, one aspect of my life that remains the same is my love of wine. Here are some of my favorite Barbera from 2020:
Andrea Oberto Barbera Giada Easily one of my all time favorites! Andrea Oberto makes 3 different Barbera, each with different use of oak. The Giada is in my opinion the best, and even though it spends quite some time in wood barrels, you can’t feel the oak in the mouth.
Diego Morra Barbera A recent discovery, and a good one at that! The 2018 has good acidity with notes of red fruit and minerals.
Ghiomo Ruit Hora With 15% of Nebbiolo, this wine will rock your world! This is Giuseppino’s passion project, and it shows!
Trediberri Barbera It’s as good in 2019 as it was in 2018, perhaps even better! Not sure if all wine tastes better in 2020 (f**k Covid), but the Barbera from Trediberri certainly does!
Barbera 2021
Burlotto Barbera Both the classic Barbera and the Aves from Burlotto are out of this world! Fabio is an outstanding winemakerm, able to make good wine in any vintage; even the difficult ones!
Elio Altare Barbera A beautiful Barbera made by wonderful people. So happy to see it back in stock in Norway.
La Vedetta Barbera d’Asti I know I mostly stick to Barbera d’Alba, but we can’t forget about Barbera d’Asti. And this one from La Vedetta is one of my favorites.
Here are some new additions to Vinmonopolet’s selection. I love that Nadia Curto has made it on the list, it’s been a while since I’ve seen her wines in Norway. Cavallotto and Cascina Fontana are also favorites of mine. Looking forward to a year full of wine!
Mario Fontana makes a killer Lanhghe Nebbiolo! The grapes for his nebbiolo comes from the historic vineyard of Castello di Sinio and some from Il Pozzo in Castiglione Falletto.
Fontana makes wines in the traditional way, with large casks, as the wine will reflect. I find this wine to be well balanced and fresh – a very good example of a Langhe Nebbiolo. Hope you enjoy it!
I love new experiences. My first visit to Cascina Fontana was amazing. Mario not only makes great wine but he is a wonderful person as well. I highly recommend you to visit his winery!
Wine: Langhe Nebbiolo
Wine: Barbera d’Alba
PIEMONTEGIRL 