Tag Archives: nebbiolo

Roberto Voerzio 

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Roberto Voerzio 

There’s not much that hasn’t already been said about Roberto Voerzio. But if I were to try and describe Roberto with one word, the word that comes to mind is “profound”. Yes, he’s a winemaker. Or, more aptly, a winegrower. But he’s so much more. He’s a farmer. A father. A grandfather. A wine lover.  And it’s obvious he loves what he does. Hearing him talk about wine is like listening to a great piece of art. And I feel lucky to have had that opportunity.  

Roberto Voerzio

There are many well-known winemakers in Piemonte, but the winemaking style of Roberto really stands out. Many years ago, the “Barolo Boys revolution” brought about a new approach to winemaking. I won’t go into too much detail right now, but the very general gist is: smaller barrels, shorter maceration, green harvest, and cleaner workspaces. Now, why am I bringing this up right now? Well, it’s mostly to talk about green harvest. 

Don’t know what green harvest is? Not to worry, I’ll explain. When a winegrower does green harvest, it means that they are removing grape clusters from the vine. They do this to give the remaining grape clusters even more nutrients. The mindset here is quality over quantity. But imagine you’re a poor farmer, scraping by, and your daughter comes home and starts cutting away grapes that could be used to make wine. Let’s just say it was quite an adjustment.  

Today, green harvest is a common practice across the board. And after a little detour, we’re about to get to the point. Because Roberto Voerzio has taken the concept of green harvest to the extreme. He cuts away more grapes than any other farmer (that I know of). Now, you could potentially get at least 1,800g per vine, probably even more. But for his Pozzo, he leaves only about 300g of grapes per vine. 300grams! It’s definitely one of the more extreme examples, but Roberto’s wines are some of the most concentrated wines I’ve encountered in Langhe.  

Roberto Voerzio Barbera Il Cerreto 2021 

Beautiful nose. Very aromatic. Very concentrated with aromas of dark red fruit. Also quite concentrated in the mouth. Almost felt like I was eating frutti di bosco. In the best way. Long finish.  

Roberto Voerzio Langhe Nebbiolo 2021 

Not as aromatic as the Il Cerreto, and has aromas of more mature red fruit. Quite fresh. Smooth tannins. 

Roberto Voerzio Barolo del Comune di La Morra 2019 

The Barolo del Comune di La Morra is made with grapes from 4 different vineyards: Case Nere, La Serra, Fossati and Cerequio. It was a bit closed on the nose at first but opened up very well in the glass. Fruity with smooth tannins.   

Roberto Voerzio Barolo Fossati 2019 

A beautifully elegant wine. Aromatic and intense. Tannins are quite robust. This might be my favorite wine from this tasting. A very impressive wine.   

Roberto Voerzio Barbera La Serra 2015 

A super aromatic wine with a beautiful nose. Intense and dense. Tannins are a bit “sharp” at first, but disappear and leave you with a round, elegant wine.  

Wines for fall

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Wines for Fall

Summer came and went, and I realized (a little begrudgingly) that it’s time to find wines for fall. Fall in Norway typically means lamb, or different types of “stew”. You have the very traditional “Fårikål”, which is lamb cooked in sourcrout. It’s not my favorite, but it has been named Norway’s National Dish, which means a fair amount of Norwegian genuinely enjoy it! Lamb is in general a favorite in the fall. There’s rack of lamb, shank of lamb, lamb filet; really lamb in any capacity. Just remember: at some point lamb become sheep…

wines for fall

Wine with lamb

Anyway, when it comes to pairing wine with lamb, I’d go for a Barbera or Nebbiolo. It all depends on how the lamb is prepared and what side dishes it’s served with. If you’re serving the Norwegian National Dish, Fårikål, Barbera is the way to go. Might I suggest the one from Francesco Borgogno or the one from Mauro Veglio. If you’re going rack of lamb or lamb shank, I’d try a Nebbiolo. Now, here you have quite a few options. A good Langhe Nebbiolo is always a winner. One of my recent favorites is the Emilio Vada Cua Rusa. You could also opt for a Nebbiolo d’Alba, for example the Valmaggiore from Marengo. For those who are not familiar with the differences between a Langhe Nebbiolo and a Nebbiolo d’Alba, here is a super quick explanation: a Nebbiolo d’Alba has to spend at least 12 months in oak barrels, whereas a Langhe Nebbiolo does not. Most Langhe Nebbiolo don’t see any oak at all. I say most, because there are always exceptions. Anyway, more on that another day.

Barolo  – where to start?

If you want something more complex with your rack of lamb, you could always go for a Barolo. Maybe it’s a special occasion? Maybe you just got promoted, or maybe you’re celebrating your 40th birthday? Or maybe it’s a Tuesday and you want a Barolo just because. There are tons of Barolo’s to choose from, but that’s a topic for another time. In the meantime, try the Cristian Boffa Barolo del Comune di La Morra or the Fratelli Revello Barolo. And watch out for the 2019’s being released in Norway this week! If the one’s I’ve tried are representative of the vintage, it’s looking very promising!

Mushroom season

It’s mushroom season. At least for some types of mushroom. My go to mushroom wine pairing is Pelaverga. And it’s usually the one from Burlotto or the one from Diego Morra, There is something about that white pepper nose and fresh acidity that makes it pair very well with mushrooms. If you’re making a very cheesy, buttery, rich risotto, perhaps a Barbera would be better. And if the mushrooms are simply a side to a steak, Nebbiolo might be the way to go.

Don’t want red wines for fall?

If you’ve made it all the way here, you’ve gotten quite a few red wine suggestions. But some dishes pair well with Champagne as well. So if you’re having Fårikål, you could opt for a Champagne instead of a Barbera. I mean, when is Champagne ever a bad idea? The J. Charpentier is still a favorite! Oudiette is another great Champagne. And although champagne with lamb stewed in sourcrout might sound like a very strange pairing, I swear it works.

And just like that, you’re prepared for fall!

Blends – Barbera + Nebbiolo

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There are not that many blends in Langhe, at least not compared to other wine regions. But I find blends to be quite interesting. Combining two or more grapes often brings out the best in each, resulting in a very balanced wine. This is true for the blend between Barbera and Nebbiolo!

Barbera

Barbera is the third most planted grape variety in Italy, but you can also find it in other countries like California and Australia. You will find many wines made with 100% Barbera, known for its high levels of acidity Other characteristics include deep color, full body, and low tannins.

Nebbiolo

Nebbiolo, on the other hand, is known for its tannins. It’s probably the most important grape variety in Piemonte, and the most notable expression of Nebbiolo is Barolo. With Nebbiolo you can also make Barbaresco, Roero, Gattinara, Carema and Ghemme.

There is a long history if blending Nebbiolo with other grape varieties in Piemonte. Adding in other grapes can add some color to the otherwise light Nebbiolo, but one of the main reasons is to soften the grapes harsh tannins.

Barbera + Nebbiolo blends

I’ve found I quite like Barbera + Nebbiolo blends. The Barbera adds some acidity to the Nebbiolo, and the Nebbiolo helps calm the high acidity from the Barbera. In addition, the Nebbiolo brings some structure, and you’re left with a balanced wine.

Gianfranco Alessandria L’Insieme

L’Insieme, a project started by Elio Altare aims to make wines which, under a single brand, tell a story of friendship and collaboration, of hard work, shared passion for the Langhe and its outstanding grapes.  Each winery makes their own blend, and in the one by Gianfranco Alessandria you’ll find 70% Barbera and 30% Nebbiolo. A fruity wine with good structure. One of the best L’Insieme I’ve had!

La Vedetta Swanti

La Vedetta wants to make the best Nebbiolo based blend, depending on what the vintage offers. Using Nebbiolo as a base, they experiment by adding in Freisa, Barbera or Dolcetto. In 2019, Swanti consists of 60% Nebbiolo and 40% Barbera. A balanced wine, with good acidity and good structure.

Elio Altare La Villa

Altare’s blend might be one of my favorites. You can truly feel the best of both varieties: well balanced tannins and good acidity.

Ghiomo Ruit Hora

Ruit Hora is Ghiomos “passion project”. Barbera was the grape from his father and grandfather, and he considers Nebbiolo to be the grape of today. So by adding 15% Nebbiolo to the Barbera, he aims to unite the two.

Pizza Wine

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Dolcetto = Pizza Wine

My favorite pizza wine is dolcetto. Obviously depends on the type of pizza, but as a general rule of thumb dolcetto works very well! I’d try the dolcetto from Nadia Curto or the one from Alessandro Veglio!

Need a recipe? Check out this one.

Friday Pizza and Pizza Wine

Barbera also works well as Pizza Wine

If your pizza has some meat, like salami or prosiutto, the acidity of a barbera will pair really well. The same goes for extra cheesy pizza, like Quatro Fromaggio. The ones are some of my favorites these days:
Diego Morra Barbera d’Alba
Ghiomo Barbera Lavai
Cigliuti Barbera

Other wines to try

Nadia Curto Freisa is another wine you can pair with pizza. Haven’t heard of Freisa? I’m not surprised. Freisa is a lesser known grape varietal from Piemonte. With the acidity like a barbera and tannins of nebbiolo, it’s a perfect combination! And it pairs well with pizza!

Nebbiolo is also a good alternative, instead of dolcetto or barbera. Try the one from Giovanni Corino or Elio Altare.

Modern Pizza

Tandoori Pizza from Vinoteket

Noawdays you can put anything on a pizza. There’s Pizza Carbonara, pizza with king crab and chicken tandoori. With modern twists like this, wine pairing can be challenging. But, if you try to pair the wine with the topping, you should find something that fits. So, with seafood pizza, try Vietti Arneis or Matrot Chardonnay.

Trediberri Nebbiolo

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Nebbiolo in Piemonte

We all know that Nebbiolo is the main grape in Piemonte. Personally, I think there are many other great grape varieties in the area, like Dolcetto, Barbera, Chardonnay, Nascetta, Freisa – I mean the list goes on. But Nebbiolo usually gets the most attention.

And with Nebbiolo, the winemakers can make both Langhe Nebbiolo or Nebbiolo d’Alba, as well as Barolo, Barbaresco, Roero, Gattinara, Carema & Ghemme. The latter all qualify as DOCG when made in their respective areas. Honestly, the rules and regulations in Piemonte are too complicated to get into right now.

Trediberri Nebbiolo – 2018

As Nicola so eloquently put it, 2018 is as skinny as Miley Cyrus. So the Trediberri Nebbiolo in 2018 will be a bit more “thin” than 2017. But skinny or thin is not necessarily a bad thin. It’s just different.

Fruity, fresh, approachable and well balanced – all the above describe this wine. I personaly prefer 2018 over 2017. At least for the moment.

Nicola’s take on the past vintages

I know you’ve seen this before. But I have to repost it, because it’s just too good.

Every year is different, for better or worse. 2014 is known for it’s massive amounts of rain. 2010 is considered a wine for the books. But I believe a truly great winemaker can make good wine in any vintage. If you work with nature, respect nature and generally just work hard, you can make magic happen.

In recent encounter with Nicola, this is what he said about the past vintages:

2016 is all class like Jaqueline Kennedy. 2017 is as huge Pamela Anderson. And 2018 is as skinny as Miley Cyrus.

NICOLA

Fossils in Valmaggiore

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You’ve heard of the Valmaggiore wine from Marengo, right? If not, you’re missing out. One of the reasons you might not have heard of it is because this particular Nebbiolo d’Alba is almost ALWAYS sold out! I swear, it’s almost impossible to get your hands on a bottle. But, I have some very good news: Marengo just expanded the vineyard in Valmaggiore!

While expanding the vineyard, reworking the soil and planting new vines, they found fossils! How cool is that? We all know that the soil plays an important role for wine, and the soil can vary drastically from vineyard to vineyard. Finding those fossils is just further proof, and can attest to some of the characteristics in this particular nebbiolo.

Valmaggiore Fossils

The expansion also means more Nebbiolo d’Alba Valmaggiore! Unfortunately, we have to wait about 3 years before any wine can be made from the new vines. But mark your calendars, because it’s a wine you don’t want to miss. In the meantime, you should try the other wines from Marengo. I highly recommend their Brunate!

Piemontegirl Tasting

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Piemontegirl tasting 2 Table

As you probably already know, I’ve started to host some wine tastings! Mostly basic tastings, differentiating between 3 grapes: dolcetto, barbera and nebbiolo. I think it is a good way to learn the difference between the 3 main grapes in Piemonte.

The dolcetto from Andrea Oberto had the typical purple color of dolcetto. On the nose it had kind of a strange smell. I think there might have been something strange with this bottle, maybe some reduction, because I’ve had this wine many times before and it did not smell like that. In the mouth it was as it should be – fresh, fruity, light.

Alessandro Veglio’s barbera had a ruby red color, slightly opaque. The nose was a little closed at the beginning, but came to after a while in the glass. It was fresh, fruity and had a good amount of acidity.

Lastly, the Perbacco. Color was brownish red, typical of the nebbiolo grape. On the nose there was roses, violets and earth tones. As Vietti makes their nebbiolo quite similar to their barolo, there were tannins present, as there should be with nebbiolo.

Piemontegirl tasting 2

Favorite Friday Pizza Wine

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As most of you know, I make pizza on Fridays. And along with my pizza, I usually have a glass of wine (or three). Here are some of my favorite wines to drink with my pizza (or honestly just any time).

Burlotto Barbera & Barbera Aves
Marengo Barbera
Cavallotto Dolcetto
Andrea Oberto Dolcetto
Trediberri Langhe Nebbiolo

Some of these wines are available at Vinmonopolet! If you can’t find the wine you like, let me know and I can help you track it down. If you want more suggestions, you can subscribe to my Newsletter!

 

Wine of the Week

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Voerzio Nebbiolo “Disanfrancesco” 2015

wow voerzio nebbiolo

Wine: Disanfrancesco

Producer: Roberto Voerzio

Region/Appellation: Piemonte, Italy

Grape varieties: Nebbiolo

Vintage: 2015

 

Eye: dark ruby red

Nose: floral, mineral, red berries

Mouth: silky texture, red fruits, fine tannins

Price Point: $20

Available at Vinmonopolet: no

Available at Systembolaget: no